It is common at more formal events for port to follow on from dinner. This will usually take place on completion of dinner, it will begin with toasts and may be followed by speeches.
The history of drinking port
The history of drinking port in Britain is shrouded in the mists of time. This fortified wine was first produced in Portugal during the 1600s, but it was probably in the 1700s that, thanks to the mercantile marine, port was brought to this country.
Contemporary literature gives examples of its being consumed in the 1800s in the east end of London as a favoured tipple of the poor when mixed with 'lemon'. Society also enjoyed consuming it after a meal, when the ladies had retired to powder their noses, and it was taken together with the cheese, coffee and cigars; sometimes with a degree of ribaldry.
It would be very surprising if Wellington's Army had not enjoyed it during the Peninsular Wars, when there was space to hold mess dinners attended by many Officers. This was unlike the Royal Navy, which in those days seldom had enough room to accommodate such gatherings. Society, the military and the Royal Navy took the drinking of port to their hearts. It is from these origins that different organisations, and indeed divisions within those organisations, have developed their own
customs and traditions.
There are those who believe that the decanter should not touch the table (those who like to keep the sediment in suspension?) and those who keep the decanter in contact with the table (as an initiative test?). However, one thread of custom seems to be consistent: port is always passed to the left, or clockwise round the table. There are no good grounds for believing that this has anything to do with the port side of a ship being on the left.
Over the years it has become accepted for madeira, another fortified wine, (and occasionally oloroso sherry) to be offered as well as port. Similarly it has become normal practice for these wines to be consumed after the food has been finished and the tables cleared completely.
It is said that, because in the old days port at dinner was free, poor midshipmen used to take advantage of this by filling their glasses to the very brim, forming a positive meniscus like that of mercury in a barometer. This is referred to as a 'midshipman's meniscus'.
In due course the principal guest receives the decanters from his right side, serves himself, and passes them to the President who then serves himself before replacing the stoppers. This not only ensures that the principal guest has been served, but will wait a very short time before the toasts begin; and the President has looked after all his guests before helping himself!
It is sometimes appropriate to include the toast of the day after the Loyal Toast. These are:
Contemporary literature gives examples of its being consumed in the 1800s in the east end of London as a favoured tipple of the poor when mixed with 'lemon'. Society also enjoyed consuming it after a meal, when the ladies had retired to powder their noses, and it was taken together with the cheese, coffee and cigars; sometimes with a degree of ribaldry.
It would be very surprising if Wellington's Army had not enjoyed it during the Peninsular Wars, when there was space to hold mess dinners attended by many Officers. This was unlike the Royal Navy, which in those days seldom had enough room to accommodate such gatherings. Society, the military and the Royal Navy took the drinking of port to their hearts. It is from these origins that different organisations, and indeed divisions within those organisations, have developed their own
customs and traditions.
There are those who believe that the decanter should not touch the table (those who like to keep the sediment in suspension?) and those who keep the decanter in contact with the table (as an initiative test?). However, one thread of custom seems to be consistent: port is always passed to the left, or clockwise round the table. There are no good grounds for believing that this has anything to do with the port side of a ship being on the left.
Over the years it has become accepted for madeira, another fortified wine, (and occasionally oloroso sherry) to be offered as well as port. Similarly it has become normal practice for these wines to be consumed after the food has been finished and the tables cleared completely.
It is said that, because in the old days port at dinner was free, poor midshipmen used to take advantage of this by filling their glasses to the very brim, forming a positive meniscus like that of mercury in a barometer. This is referred to as a 'midshipman's meniscus'.
In due course the principal guest receives the decanters from his right side, serves himself, and passes them to the President who then serves himself before replacing the stoppers. This not only ensures that the principal guest has been served, but will wait a very short time before the toasts begin; and the President has looked after all his guests before helping himself!
It is sometimes appropriate to include the toast of the day after the Loyal Toast. These are:
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Monday Our Ships at Sea
Tuesday Our Men Wednesday Ourselves (as no one else is likely to concern himself with us) Thursday A Bloody War & a Sickly Season Friday A Willing Foe & Sea Room Saturday Wives & Sweethearts (May they never meet) Sunday Absent Friends |
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If, as one hopes, the port is passed again, the same routine is repeated, always ensuring that the stoppers travel with the correct decanters. The stewards must ensure that decanters are replenished as necessary between each passing to ensure that there is never a drought half-way round.